Should We Stay or Should We Go ...

We're halfway through our travel adventure ... can't believe it. Today, drumroll please, Frances bought her first sleeveless shirt after traveling for over three weeks in the tropics. I packed two sleeveless shirts and three t-shirts but Frances, the woman who wears long underwear year round in Bayfield brought two long-sleeved shirts and one t-shirt ... she tells me that she's just like her dad.

Here on Roatan Island you typically sweat from about 9am to 9pm. One of the shop owners who moved here from New Jersey last February said that most people try to get into the shade or stay home from around noon to 3pm. I still haven't figured out how people work in the heat. It's hard enough relaxing and having fun.

We ARE getting tans. Even though we spend most of our time under trees or palapas, in buses, or layered with 50 plus suntan lotion, we can't avoid it. The sun is so intense.

About a week ago we saw a large blow up scene celebrating the holiday season. It was larger than life size on the edge of a central park. Styrofoam snow rained down on a snowman. What a sight! I can't even imagine it, or remember it, when I'm living in 80 and 90 degree heat.

We're trying to change our return flight since Frances is over it when it comes to bus travel. If we can't, we'll need to start busing for cancun [sorry, the keyboard I'm using at this internet cafe won't capitalize "c" and "m" or provide parenthesis marks] within a few days.

Both yesterday and today we checked on a thatch roof that's being built downtown in West End. Frances wants to build something similar on our property in Bayfield to duplicate the idea of something natural meant to withstand wind and rain. It's like bringing part of our trip home with us. We found out from our hosts at the cerros Beach Resort in northern Belize that palms for thatch need to be female rather than male because they're stronger. They also have to be harvested between three days before and three days after the full moon so that they are at their peak strength.

One of the men watching the construction yesterday told us that the palms used for this thatch were harvested last full moon. Jenny at cerros Beach Resort told us that the right timing for harvest can mean the difference between a thatch roof that lasts for two to three years versus one that lasts for 15 years.

I mentioned to Frances as we walked down the one main street in West End today that I feel like I'm an investigative reporter searching for as much local lore and information as I can find. It's great fun ... plus you meet many interesting people.

Terror of the Not So Deep

Another wonderful day on Roatan. We started with our fruit breakfast and a long conversation about American politics with two young, passionate, and politically-aware travelers from California. Next we headed to West Bay (about a 45 minute walk from Keifitos Plantation where we're staying). We swam out from the shore to snorkle ... the water was incredibly clear.

Unfortunately, Frances is a much braver explorer than I. She tries to point out the beautiful fish but when she looks to find me I have turned and headed back toward shore. All she sees is my pink snorkle disappearing into the horizon. Neither of us can swim but I am more scared about it than she is. I'm still trying to get used to the fact that once I put my face (with snorkle mask) down into the water I am cradled by the water. Today when I saw the sea bottom getting farther and farther away from me I hightailed it back toward shore. We did go out again and swim further into the reef after Frances assured me that it got more shallow farther out from shore. (My fears about going into a low blood sugar add to my anxiety.)

I told Frances today that if we keep getting back into the water and practicing I'm sure that I'll feel more and more confident. I'm definitely learning more about me and my inner fears. Hopefully, I can overcome some of my anxieties before our time runs out here on these beautiful shores.

After a long swing in our hammock and peanut butter sandwiches in our room, we headed into West End to have a drink and visit the internet cafe. We tried our first Mojitos tonight, thanks to another movie star, James Bond. Frances saw them on the menu and the first was so good we had another.

Tomorrow we go fruit picking with our host, Phillip. He harvests his own fruit from the plantation for our breakfasts so we'll see how it's done. He did forewarn us to wear long pants with shoes and socks since we'll venture through stinging nettle.

Thank you, Jackie Chan!

We're back in paradise again ... Roatan Island, off the north coast of Honduras. (We think about Bayfield and Madeline Island often ... the main difference is the climate). We arrived by ferry (250 person capacity) last evening from La Ceiba. It was an hour and a quarter trip across the Caribbean Sea with barf bags distributed freely to those on board.

Luckily the ferry was set up like a movie theater and showed a Jackie Chan movie during the trip. That provided a vital focus point to keep attention off the swells. Nonetheless, people rushed for a bathroom and kids and adults alike made use of their plastic bag accessory. One crew member was stationed at the front of the boat and intently watched faces to discover where to go next to offer additional plastic bags and/or needed wiping up services. I think Frances and I have fairly strong stomachs but, truth be told, Jackie Chan may have saved us!

We found a wonderful lodging that's about a 10 minute walk from town along the beach. Cabins are perched atop a high embankment with stairs to the beach and a long dock. We rented snorkle equipment from Phillip, our host, and we plan to swim right off the shore this afternoon to see what sea life resides underneath the waters. On our deck we have our first hammock! We're told we'll be able to lie in it to watch the sunset! We already paid for four additional nights.

Of course, Roatan is one of the best spots in this country to sample malaria ... five different kinds on this island alone. We visited a butterfly and insect museum in La Ceiba two days ago and also found out about Chagas, a disease from biting insects that affects one-third of Honduran people. No known cure. It gets into the blood stream, attacks heart, liver, digestive tract, and kills within 10 to 20 years after infection, usually by heart attack.

We're staying on a plantation and hope to join Phillip on his venture to pick fruit for breakfast in the next day or two. We had lots of exotic possibilities this AM: a white sour fruit, a black (chocolate pudding-like) fruit, papaya, and watermelon. Frances wants to find out how the owners planted fruit trees in the preexisting tropical forest. There are horses, cows, and chickens here too. As a result, we had homemade cheese on fresh-baked bagels for breakfast this AM. A horse ride on the beach is an enticing possibility as well.

It's noon ... Time to shop for groceries, head back to our lodging, and hit the water. Adios, amigos.